This is a post about her –> famous BURA – drama queen in Baška Voda and all Dalmatia, queen of winter and fear. Why fear you ask? Well because she scares everybody,..at the moment it starts people run to their homes, hiding and waiting until it ends. This strong wind is like a woman; passionate and unpredictable. You can never tell what will be “her” reaction and “her” reflection on the environment. It might seem silly to a foreigner, but many Dalmatians believe the wind can not only help determine if rain is on the horizon but it can also affect mood, health, food production.
BURA brings GOOD
So let me tell you that BURA is a good wind. It comes from the north, catapulting over the Velebit mountain range out to the Adriatic sea. It’s a dry cool wind, which is why it can be freezing on a sunny cloudless day. If the sun is out and you’re freezing to death, that’s bura. It’s most common in winter, but can happen at any time of the year.
This wind is also perfect and required for drying pršut (Dalmatia’s cured ham) as it ages in open houses across Dalmatia. Actually without bura, there is no good pršut! Also “she” is responsible for good and famous cheese from Island Pag. The strongest bura tends to happen in Senj, near Rijeka. Because of it’s position on the coast, bura can blow in multiple directions. This area under Biokovo mountain is also very much affected with BURA during all year (some of you experienced it during the summer in Baška Voda). In Dalmatia, the sky can get clogged with a haze that makes the islands barely visible. Bura comes in and wipes the sky clean. It is said that on some days after bura, one can see Italy from the top of Biokovo Mountain —-> put that on your list for next visit! I can confirm this, it is really beautiful view.
I hope I have managed to make clear for you what BURA is, If you are having trouble understanding this, maybe the song of my dad Smilko Radić (he is a composer as you know), makes it clear for you. Few years ago he was so inspired by bura in Baška Voda that he wrote a dalmatian song about it. Music was written by his colleague Pero Gotovac.
Video: Baškovoška bura
Lyrics: (on Croatian – no point of translating it. Just listen the music rhythm —> that is BURA)
Bura! Baškovoška prava, ‘juta bura!
Cipa, dere, zmija ‘juta, bižite joj s puta!
Cipa, brije, vije, puše, ka’ da je bez duše!
U kužini vatra lagano pucketa,
Kraj špakera mačka grije se i prede.
Igraju se dica, igre ispo’ stola,
Vanka kuće bura nariče do bola.
U kužini vatra primiče se kraju,
Samo lumin gori, dani malo traju.
U daljini nima ni Brača ni Hvara,
Bezdušno kad cipa, baškovoška prava.
Dimi, puše, vije, brije, bura!
Nima take nigdi, nosi sve i vaja,
Bižite joj s puta kad zapuše s kraja!
Vije, brije, dere, para, bura!
Vije, brije, nosi, kosi,
Cipa, dere, vaja, kad zapuše s kraja!